Выхлоп на FF2

мне предлагают в атт собрать выхлоп за 20000 из компонентов мдж рейс

mentaeb

Это с пауком? Компоненты под ФФ2 или универсальные и трубы они сами будут гнуть?
Я говорил про специально для ФФ2 компоненты.

FocusDriver
Огласи цену выпуска MG-race если не сложно.

Сколько не писал в разные фирмы, ответов нет... На сайте MG-Race в новостях написано что есть настроенные коллектора для FF2, но в каталоге нет. На письма не отвечают. Очень хочу убрать эту катакакашку, т.к. после того как я убрал со своей бывшей ВАЗовской 12-ки, катколлектор, и заменил пауком, не стандартным, а настроенным, приход был удивительный, после того я понял что в моих последующих машинах этому "катетору" не место!!!

m-i-x-a
Если иммено паук нужен езжай в т.ц Москва внизу где запчасти продаюn есть конторка нулевиками (GREEN) занимается и выпуском у них можно отдельно купить за 11.т.р (MG-race)

Хорошо бы, но вот только я живу в Тюмени.

А есть номерок это конторы, почта и т.п.?

495-221-42-05
http://www.fkt.ru/about/shop/

FocusDriver
Так скока обманка тебе обходиться в Москве?

ass0000:

495-221-42-05 http://www.fkt.ru/about/shop/

Респект !!! Буду пытаться с ними договориться.

FocusDriver
Чё там с ценами на MG-Race?

FocusDriver
слился((

Buffalo, не надо так говорить У него нету времени сюда попасть. Человек за свои слова отвечает.

Buffalo

Я тут не на работе же

О скидке, если серьезно надо - в личку.

Soloma

Обманка - цена Европиана + 15 Евро доставка

Skarface

Тебе тоже в личку, если надо...

ass0000:

495-221-42-05 http://www.fkt.ru/about/shop/

Блин вот не могу никак добиться до них звонки+почта=0

FocusDriver:

Skarface Тебе тоже в личку, если надо...

И мне в личку, надо

ИНСТРУКЦИЯ КАК СДЕЛАТЬ ЧТОБЫ ЧЕК НЕ ГОРЕЛ ПРИ ЗАМЕНЕ КАТА

Suggested Tools:
Floor Jack
Jack Stands (2) or Vehicle Ramps
Metric Sockets: 10-17mm
Box End Wrenches: 10-17mm
Oxygen Sensor Socket
Pry-Bar/Crow-Bar
Hammer/Mallet
WD-40 or other penetrant/lubricant
Anti-Seize
Soldering Iron, Wire Cutter/Stripper, Electrical Tape

Installation Steps –

1. Jack the front of the vehicle up in the air and support with jack stands, providing enough room for you to slide underneath and work on the vehicle. Or, you may drive the vehicle up onto plastic or metal ramps (purchased at a local auto parts store). Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2. If the exhaust system is still hot to the touch, allow it to cool off for 20-30 minutes. Allowing the factory bolts to cool and shrink will make the removal of the factory kit much easier.

3. You will need to disconnect the upper and lower O2 sensors from their plastic connectors. The plastic connectors are attached to a brass colored mounting plate bolted to the engine block near all of the drive pulleys. Once disconnected, you can let the wires hang down, out of the way. You will need to remove the brass support bracket that the O2 sensor wiring connectors are attached to. Use a 14mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the engine.

4. Once the stock system is cool, remove all of the heat shields from around the stock manifold, using a 10mm socket.

5. Spray all of the bolts and nuts holding the kit together with some WD-40. You should also spray the factory rubber exhaust hanger with some lubricant to make removal and installation easier. Be sure to spray the 7 nuts on the cylinder head, the 2 nuts connecting the stock flex pipe to the exhaust system, and the bolts holding the header to the stock support bracket (attached to the engine block).

6. Remove the 4 bolts connecting the support bracket on the underside of the factory manifold. The support bracket has two bolts holding it to the engine and two more bolts holding it to the factory manifold. You may need to access the hard to reach bolts from above the engine. The angles can be difficult to reach the bolt heads with a socket or wrench.

7. Once you have successfully removed the support bracket, you will need to use a wedge or pry-bar to break the welded-on support bracket off of the factory manifold. The idea is to wedge the pry-bar between the cat-cylinder and the bracket. You need to work the wedge/pry-bar back and forth to weaken the weld and eventually pop the welds. You may even need to us a hammer or mallet to tap the wedge further into the space between the bracket and manifold. There are a total of 3 welds that need to be popped: One towards the bottom and two at the top of the cat cylinder. This is by far the most difficult and possibly frustrating section of the installation. So take your time and be patient.

8. Following the removal of the support bracket you may remove the two nuts holding the exhaust system to the stock flex-pipe section using a 14mm socket or wrench. To get sufficient torque to break the nuts loose, you may need to us a 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet, and possibly a cheater bar. These nuts often become very rusted and it takes a good deal of force to break them loose. Once the nuts are loose, remove the support bars from the rubber exhaust hangars and disconnect the flex-pipe from the exhaust system.

9. Now it is time to remove the 7 nuts holding the stock manifold to the cylinder head. You may remove the nuts in any order you wish. Tightening the nuts requires following a certain order, which we cover later.

10. Once all 7 nuts have been removed, you can slide the manifold flange off the cylinder head studs. Remove the factory manifold gasket and set aside for the installation of the Draxas Header.

11. At this stage, it will help to have two people working. One underneath the vehicle to guide the flex pipe section through the narrow tunnel, and the other guiding the manifold up through the engine bay. The flex pipe section has the exhaust hangars that want to snag on things as you are pulling it through the tunnel, so keep that in mind.

12. In order to remove the stock manifold, you will need to line up the cat-cylinder part of the manifold towards the drivers side of the engine. The bolts/studs coming out of the cylinder head tend to get in the way. If you attempt the pull the manifold up closer to the passenger side of the engine, the bolts will surely get in the way. This stage of the removal also takes some patience, so take your time and don’t get frustrated.

13. Once you have the manifold out of the engine bay, you will need to remove both of the oxygen sensors. Soak them down in WD-40 if you haven’t already. It is a good idea to use an Oxygen Sensor socket. This will prevent you from stripping the sensor. You may need to secure the manifold by standing on it or having a helper hold it. It may take a decent amount of force to remove the O2 Sensors.

14. With the oxygen sensors off, this is a good time to solder the capacitor and resistor into the lower O2 sensor wiring.

15. After both Oxygen sensors have been removed from the stock manifold, you may install the sensors into the Draxas header. Use a small amount of Anti-Seize on the threads of the O2 Sensors to prevent them from becoming stuck further down the road. You do not need to torque the oxygen sensors very much, just make sure they are wrench tightened to about 30-40ft pounds.

16. You may choose to attach the Flex Pipe section to the header at this point, or you may install the flex pipe onto the header after the header has been bolted to the engine. This is up to you. It may be easier to install the flex pipe prior to installing the header on the engine. Gaining access to the bolts on the 3-bolt header collector flange can be difficult in that tight tunnel area. Use the supplied copper gasket and nuts/bolts between the header and flex pipe.

17. After the O2 Sensors have been installed on the Draxas Header, you may install the manifold gasket on the cylinder head. Then drop the Draxas Header down into the engine bay and the flex pipe through the tunnel. Insert the metal supports on the flex pipe into the rubber hangars and slide the flex pipe exit flange onto the two bolts of the exhaust system and the header over the 7 studs on the cylinder head.

18. Tighten the 7 nuts on the cylinder flange so the header is held snuggly against the engine. Then torque the nuts to 41 ft/lbs following the order below. You do not want to over-tighten the nuts and snap off one of the studs.



19. When the header flange is torqued to the engine you may then tighten the two nuts connecting the flex pipe to the exhaust system.

20. Mount the brass colored metal support bracket for the O2 Sensor connectors and re-connect the O2 Sensor plastic connectors to the proper color-coded piece (grey to grey, black to black). To make it easy, just remember the upper O2 sensor plugs into the upper plastic connector.

21. Once you have verified all the nuts and bolts have been reinstalled and tightened and the O2 sensors are connected, you may opt to reconnect the battery and start the engine. This will allow you to check for exhaust leaks. If you don’t want to start the engine with the car on jack stands, safely lower the vehicle to the ground and start the engine.

22. If the engine sounds fine and you do not detect any exhaust leaks, take the car for a brief test drive. At this point, if everything checks out fine, go enjoy your newfound power!

Check Engine Light Eliminator

The following instructions are for wiring up the proper electrical components into the lower O2 Sensor wiring, to prevent the Check Engine Light (CEL) from coming on.

Parts Needed from Radio Shack:

271-1356 1 Mega Ohm Resistor
272-1434A 1.0 F Tantalum Capacitor

Solder the Resistor “in-line” on the grey wire.

Bridge the grey and black wires with the Capacitor.



When the soldering is complete, cover the wires in electrical tape. The Check Engine Light should not come on if the wiring/soldering was done properly.

Вот мой перевод
нужен 1 резистор номиналом 1 мега ом( 1M Ohm 1/4-Watt Carbon Film Resistor ) ,и конденсатор танталовый емкостью 1 мк Фарад ( 1.0 MFD 35WVDC maximum )и подцепить ко 2-й лямде согласно рисунку

Promt сошел с ума!!!
Перевожу вручную...

кому не сложно, переведите, ниче не понимаю...

Ждёмс... очень интригующе!

Мне тоже!

интeрecнaя идея!

Уважаемые коллеги! После долгого и упорного чтения форума посвящённого этой теме, сегодня наконец-то поставил разведёнку:заднюю банку поставил MG-Race и насадки Ulter.

Oleg98
не сильно гудеть начал???
что вышло по деньгам???
Спасибо!

Михаил_20. Остался штатный катализатор, Л-зонд и резонатор. Заменил только основной глушитель на универсальный прямоточный MG-Race, и сделали разводку. Звук стал более благородный, насыщенно басовитый, на "холостых" работает как стандарт, а при разгоне ощущается как сказал выше.

Всё с работой вместе стоило 10000 рублей.

Oleg98
какой именно глушитель поставил???

Как я уже написал выше, заменён только основной глушитель на прямоточный MG-Race(круглая банка). Могу фото выложить. Всё остальное штатное.

Oleg98
хотелось бы увидеть???

Вот, пожалуйста!

Oleg98
Благодарю!